In a prodigious masculine-feminine interplay, the Dior Fall 2024 collection pays tribute to the two fashion capitals so dear to the House: Paris, emblem of elegance and haute couture, the cradle of which is 30 Montaigne, and New York, which fascinated Monsieur Dior right from 1947, with its vertiginously vertical architecture and peerless collective effervescence. The silhouettes celebrate the inimitable aura of Marlene Dietrich, incarnation of that fascinating, seminal duality. From suits and tailoring with a superb twist on tweed or tailcoat spirit, to velvet evening gowns, modernized, sparkling divinely with dance-floor and neo-Broadway odes to glamour. From casual trouser outfits magnifying the sportswear attitude, to a triptych of marvelous leather pieces – a seamless pea coat with lining punctuated by the Eiffel Tower motif opening the show, a jumpsuit, and an aviator-biker jacket brandishing the star-spangled American flag fused with that of France on its back –, these exceptional creations affirm the irresistibly hybrid facets of the wardrobe, at once timeless and ultra-contemporary.

The hat-tie-glasses combo reinvents Dietrich's* unique allure once again, and is the perfect accompaniment to white shirts and calfskin gloves embroidered with bees that seem to flutter on the hands. These essential accessories are also punctuated, in cabaret spirit, by embroidered fringes, as so many odes to the "movement of life" celebrated by Monsieur Dior at each of his défilés. As for bags, from the Dior Book Tote to the Lady Dior, they play the card of pared-down purity, quintessential elegance, or that of US and Paris-New York inspirations, flags and motifs harmonized with a trench coat or sportswear ensemble, mixing casualness with the House's cherished codes. Platform shoes, revisited lace-up espadrilles and embroidered footwear are more inspired than ever by the actress, echoing her avant-garde masculine-feminine and Riviera-Hollywood dualities.

* Who, incidentally, purchased her ties (as well as her pajamas) from Dior Monsieur!